Written April 2023, Moorea, French Polynesia
This is Lolo. He’s not just a tattooist—he’s a storyteller who uses his needle like a pen to write ancient Polynesian legends on skin. Like a dear friend who speaks from the heart, his work feels personal yet steeped in a history that spans centuries.
Barefoot tattooing
Born in Tahiti, French Polynesia, Lolo’s journey began long before he ever picked up a tattoo needle. At 23, he discovered the art of tatau, an ancient tradition that was as much about identity and spirituality as it was about aesthetics. In Polynesian culture, the tattoo is a language—one that speaks of honor, resilience, and transformation. Whether called tatau in Tahiti, pe’a in Samoa, or moko in Aotearoa (New Zealand), these marks are steeped in history. They have, for centuries, been a rite of passage, and a bridge between the physical and the spiritual realms.
Before he fell in love with tattooing, Lolo was a landscape architect. He literally designed landscapes until one bold day changed everything—he tattooed his own foot. In that instant, he realized that the human body was the most compelling canvas of all. That single, self-carved mark set him on a path where every line became a testament to personal change and cultural pride.
It’s been eight years since that turning point, and Lolo has since perfected his craft in the most remarkable ways. I’ve seen him work under bright studio lights and even in the soft, mysterious glow of a sailboat at night. Each tattoo he creates is a vivid narrative—a blend of ancient symbols and modern emotion that speaks directly to the soul.
Memories etched onto skin
I once asked him, “Which has been your most memorable tattoo?” His eyes softened as he recounted the story of a man whose life was irrevocably altered by loss. This client, tormented by the haunting memory of finding his father after a tragic suicide, came seeking more than just art. Over six painstaking months, Lolo and the man embarked on a journey of transformation. An elaborate piece sprawled across half his back and cascaded down his arm. That tattoo was more than ink on skin; it was a visual journey from despair to healing, a transformation that helped the man. “I’ll probably remember him for the rest of my life,” Lolo confided, and that sentiment really captures the profound impact of his art.
The sacred art of Tatau
To Lolo, tatau is far more than a process of inking the skin. It is a timeless dialogue—a means to leave an indelible mark on someone’s spirit while simultaneously inviting the ancient energies of Polynesian heritage to enliven his own. Each design is a harmonious blend of tradition and personal meaning, crafted to honor both the story of the wearer and the cultural legacy that inspired it.
The art of Polynesian tattooing stretches back thousands of years, with archaeological evidence suggesting that these practices date to at least the 3rd century CE. In many Polynesian societies, a tattoo was not a mere decoration but a symbol of nobility, courage, and community belonging. The process itself, once performed with tools fashioned from bone or shell, was as rigorous as it was sacred—each mark a vow to the gods, each pattern a badge of honor earned through trials and triumphs.
Leaving a mark on the spirit
For Lolo, tatau isn’t merely about marking the skin—it’s about making a mark on the spirit. Every design is a tribute to a lineage of storytellers, warriors, and dreamers — a living dialogue between past and present. It’s about connecting deeply with someone’s personal journey while honoring the ancient traditions that inspire him.
In the end, perhaps tatau is about more than marking skin. Maybe it is about touching a deeper truth—leaving an imprint on the spirit and allowing that spirit to be transformed in return. Through his art, Lolo reminds us that we are all part of an enduring story, a narrative that spans continents and centuries, written in ink and etched in heart. And if you ever get a chance to see Lolo at work, you’ll understand how beautifully personal and powerfully transformative his art can be.
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