Letters From Polynesia: In The Quiet Depths Of Kauehi

Written March 2023, Kauehi, French Polynesia

You know you’ve landed in a truly remote spot when even the remoras seem different. In most places, these little fish just slip under the boat like they’re used to us. But here in Kauehi, they’re like curious kids—swimming up to inspect my toes as soon as I dip my feet in the water, and a few even daring a playful nibble.

Kauehi is part of the Tuamotu Archipelago in French Polynesia, a vast atoll with endless coral reefs and a turquoise lagoon that feels like something out of a dream. Even though it’s only 32 nautical miles from a more familiar atoll, this place has its own vibe—almost like a secret island, with half the atoll still a mystery on our charts.

A disconnected birthday

There’s no cell service or internet here, and honestly, that suits me just fine. We rolled in on a Thursday, and by Saturday it was my birthday—but there was no way to broadcast that to the outside world. It didn’t really matter. I ended up sleeping fitfully, woken by odd dreams and a lingering nausea, and somehow managed to dodge an impromptu birthday serenade as the first one up.

But the rest of the crew had a different plan. Breakfast showed up with balloons, and someone even lit candles shaped like “18” as a little joke. I got a sarong and a hand-drawn card, the sketches capturing bits of our time here. Later, our skipper whipped up lasagna, and we dug into homemade Oreo and dulce de leche ice cream—a slice of indulgence in the middle of nowhere. The folks on our convoying boat even brought over a poem, and for some reason, every birthday card had me sporting ridiculously large arm muscles.

Slow days and solitude

Days here just drift by. We spend our time reading, swimming, and lingering on the shore, soaking in the slow pace that matches the rhythm of the tide. I’ve been pushing myself to get better at diving—even though I still feel a bit awkward with water in my mask—and every time I take out my camera, it’s like capturing a secret that my phone never could.

There’s something about Kauehi that goes beyond just being disconnected. It’s a kind of solitude that quiets the noise inside you. Out here, far from the usual chaos, even time seems to slow down. And for now, that’s exactly what I need.